Steal a deal – buying a second hand car

Buying a second hand car? Don’t let those slick sellers get the better of you – prepare to haggle for the best buy and learn how to spot a dud.

Keep it real
We all love to dream and it’s easy to let your heart rule your head when that 1968 MG soft-top on the garage forecourt is itching to take you back to your youth. But hang on, you’re 36 with two kids! Think what you’re going to be using the car for. Is it shopping, or for driving holidays? It’s also amazing how many people with children buy a car without putting the boot through the buggy test. Will your chosen motor shoot up your car insurance premium? Has your 17-year-old just passed his test? He doesn’t need anything more than a safe 1.1 litre hatchback, no matter what his mates might be telling him.

Equip yourself
Don’t feel shy about bringing a handy check kit with you. It’s okay to whip out a mirror and torch to look for rust and damage under the chassis – clever moves like this will show the seller you know your onions. A magnet works a treat, too: if it doesn’t stick to bodywork, you know there have been some shoddy accident repairs with plastic filler. (Though bear in mind that some models are built with plastic panels – so do some research on the model or car you are going to view before you go). It’s also worth taking along a knowledgeable pal with oil-stained fingers to do some tut-tutting in the background, just to keep the seller on their toes.

Read the bibles
Most of us can’t tell the difference between our carburettors and our clutches, let alone know how much second hand cars should cost. But don’t worry; there are tons of expert price guides out there (such as Glass’s, available online or at newsagents) to help you choose your dream car. They’ll tell you exactly what you should be paying according to a car’s model, age, mileage and colour scheme – and give you handy hints on depreciation. It’s worth waving it in front of the salesman – just to show you’re on the ball. Think about repairs, too: how much are spare parts? Consider resale as well - you’re probably one of three special people in the world who love that tangerine orange ’72 Beetle, but you’ll sell your silver Peugeot 206 in about five seconds.

Plan your search
Don’t go looking for cars when you’re feeling unwell or tired. You could find yourself agreeing to a price you don’t like but don’t feel up to arguing about, or going for a car you don’t really want. Always go during the day and in clear weather – any faults a car may have will be much easier to spot.

Choose your ground
So where to look? Avoid auctions unless you’re knowledgeable and have nerves of steel. Small ads for private sales are bargain city but you’ve little redress if things go wrong (same phone numbers for different ads are a sure sign of private trader – beware)! Franchised dealerships are one of the safest bets – the vast majority of salesmen are, of course, courteous professionals simply making a living. Very few are out to rip you off. If you’re not happy, speak to the manufacturer.

Kick those tyres
Uneven tyre wear could mean suspension faults. Exhaust smoke says: ‘Help, I’m dyin’ here!’. Crack that bonnet open and get up close and personal with the dipstick: sludgy oil just screams a tired engine and poor maintenance. Insist on a test drive and find out if the power steering is clapped out enough to make it feel like you’re driving a 10-tonne truck. And don’t forget to check that electric windows and the stereo system work.

Out-psyche the seller
Whether you’re dealing with a dealer or a private vendor, check out their body language. When you bend down to check the front tyres, why are they trotting round to the back, talking about boot space when you’re checking the tread? Make the seller respect you – learn as much as you can about the car you want to buy, then you’ve closed down their ‘blinding you with science’ option. Go in low on price, and don’t defer to a seller’s ‘expertise’ if they laugh in your face – remember they’re after your cash! Immediately point out faults, and repairs you’ll need to do, to justify your offer. Then you can carefully move up to a price that suits you both.

Check, check, check again
So you’ve given the tyres a good kicking, and the seller’s thrown in some furry dice – bargain! But it’s estimated that one in three second hand motors have a dodgy history – your chosen car could have finance still owing on it or could be stolen. Either way, the car isn’t legally yours and you won’t get your money back when the finance company or the police tow it away. Some cars can even be two wrecks welded together. But don’t fret! You can get experts to check a car’s history and give it a full mechanical inspection. Finally, if you’re not entirely happy with a car, never accept second best with second hand. A car purchase is just too big and important to rush.

Our top 5 tips to survive the buying jungle

1. When buying privately, always meet the seller at their home. If there are loads of spare tyres and parts lying about, you could be dealing with a trader.
2. Let the woman do the bargaining, they’re often braver and better at it: watch the dealer’s hair gel melt as she demands a free CD player.
3. Check the history of the vehicle – try hpicheck.com
4. Are the locks all the same or is there an odd one out? Thieves will change locks they had to bust to break into a motor. However, bear in mind that a previous owner may have needed to replace just one lock for a legitimate reason – again, check the history of the vehicle and see if there are any receipts for locks.
5. Think ahead, think about all the potential maintenance costs and of course, the car insurance!

Here’s the techie bit…

The VIN
The Vehicle Identification Number can seem a bit complicated but it’s essential to get your head round this relatively simple security check. It’s a number unique to every car, stamped on the bodywork under the bonnet. It must match the number on the registration document. If it doesn’t, or the number has been removed, then it’s probably best to just walk away.

The paperwork
Never buy a car that doesn’t have a registration document even if the seller says he’s sent it to DVLA for changes. A neat trick to check for fraud is to hold the document up to the light – genuine ones have a watermark in the paper. A mark on the surface means it could be a forgery.

The MOT
Ask the seller about the MOT – can they show you a certificate to prove the car is safe and legal? Remember that you won’t be able to get road tax without an MOT if the car is over three years old. Has the car been serviced regularly? If the ad says ‘full service history’, then you should get the seller to prove it to you.

Does your car have a dirty secret?
Once you’ve found your dream car, there’s plenty of help from Churchill to get you on the right road. First, for just £24.99 for our car insurance policyholders, the Churchill Car History Check will reveal if your chosen motor has a shady past, and stop you wasting your time over a no-go. Take out Churchill car insurance for extra peace of mind – cover is flexible to suit your needs, and there’s money off for careful drivers (up to 65% No Claim Discount). Now you can relax and enjoy your new car!